The three ways windows get covered — and when each is right
Not every broken window needs the same fix, and paying for the wrong one wastes money:
- Plywood/OSB board-up — the standard for fully broken panes and break-in damage. Rigid, weatherproof, and secure against re-entry when anchored properly. This is what insurers picture when they say “secure the property.”
- Shrink film / glazing film — a clear temporary membrane for cracked (not shattered) panes or for post-hail situations with dozens of damaged windows, where filming preserves daylight while replacements are ordered.
- Temporary glazing (acrylic/polycarbonate) — for storefronts and homes that must stay presentable and lit; costs more than plywood but functions like a window until real glass arrives.
An honest crew will mix approaches on one house — plywood on the shattered opening, film on the two cracked ones — and your bill will be smaller for it.
What professional window boarding involves
The work itself takes 30–60 minutes per opening: glass cleared and disposed of, the opening measured, sheet material cut to fit inside the reveal or over the trim (situation-dependent), and anchored with screws into sound framing. For break-ins the spec changes — sheets get through-bolted to interior 2x4 bracing so nothing on the outside can be unscrewed. That anti-entry detail is the main thing separating a security board-up from weather covering, and it’s worth confirming the crew you hire does it.
Cost per window, in detail
| Service / Item | Low | High | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small ground-floor window | $50 | $120 | Fast access, small sheet |
| Standard single/double-hung | $75 | $300 | Average ≈ $250 |
| Picture window | $250 | $500 | Full-sheet coverage |
| Sliding glass door | $250 | $500+ | Often two sheets + bracing |
| Second-story window | +$25 | +$75 | Ladder/access premium |
| Storefront glass | $300 | $800+ | Commercial sheet sizes |
| Emergency same-day fee | $50 | $100 | Once per visit |
Materials are a minor part of these numbers — a 4×8 plywood sheet costs $15–$25, and labor makes up 80–90% of the bill. That’s also why multi-window jobs get cheaper per opening: one trip, one setup, several windows. After hail events, ask for per-opening pricing on the whole affected side of the house rather than window-by-window quotes. More context in the full cost guide.
If it was a break-in
Two extra steps protect you. First, get the police report number before the crew arrives — your insurer will ask for it, and photographing the damage untouched helps both the report and the claim. Second, if the broken window is beside a door lock (a common entry technique), have the boarding crew secure it to anti-entry spec and consider re-keying: you don’t know what the intruder saw or took, including spare keys.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to board up one window?
National 2026 figures put a standard window at $75–$300 boarded, averaging around $250, with published per-opening estimates of roughly $237–$286. Small ground-floor windows can be as little as $50; oversized picture windows and sliding glass doors run $250–$500+ because of sheet size and handling. A same-day emergency fee of $50–$100 may apply to the visit.
Board-up or emergency glass replacement — which should I choose?
Same-day glass replacement sounds better but is rarely available for anything but standard sizes, and after storms glass shops backlog for weeks. Boarding costs less, happens today, and buys you time to replace the glass properly (and through insurance if applicable). For double-pane, tempered, or custom units, board first — the replacement will need to be ordered anyway.
Is boarding a broken window overkill for a small crack?
For a crack with the pane intact, heavy glazing film or tape from inside can stabilize it until replacement. Board-up is for compromised openings: shattered panes, failed frames, or any breach a person or weather could pass through. If you can feel airflow, board it.
Will boarding damage my window frames?
Done correctly, minimally. Pros screw into the frame or trim where holes will be hidden by repair work, or through-bolt with interior bracing (no frame penetration at all) for anti-entry jobs. What damages frames is improvised work: nails into vinyl frames, adhesive foams, or oversized sheets bridging onto siding.